Before this vest that I knit was pale green.

After simmering in black tea dye liquor for an hour, it is now a lovely camel beige color.

A tea dyeing experiment, on the left the un-dyed cotton cloth, next is the cloth left undisturbed in black tea dye liquor at room temperature for a week, and the last on the right is the  cotton cloth simmered with the loose tea leaves while making the dye liquor, this cloth has a slightly mottled effect.

Mens linen cotton short sleeve shirt, used for skirt portion of this empire waist dress, bodice is a purchased knit cotton top.

I pieced together the side front panels and converted one horizontal seam into a pocket.

Men’s linen cotton short sleeve shirt, recut to make a women’t short sleeve shirt. Used the front pocket, buttons & button holes and back yoke as is.

Men’s tunic and pants set used as fabric for this women’t blouse.

Various men’s white shirts used as fabric for this 3/4 sleeve women’t blouse with pockets.

Scandinavian Needlecraft motif in variegated Tencel on linen cotton cloth, 12″ x 7″.

Polka & Bloom Tree of Life, in variegated Tencel on linen cotton, 5″ x 4 5/8″.

My miniature free hand motif inspired by the above Tree of Life, in hand dyed wool on linen cotton cloth, 2 1/2″ x 3″.

My free hand motif inspired by the above Tree of Life, in cotton craft yarn on linen cotton cloth, 8″ x 10″.

My free hand motif inspired by Torrefazzione tiles, in variegated Tencel, on linen cotton cloth, 5 3/4″ x 4″.

My own design inspired by all the above motifs, in variegated Tencel, on linen cotton cloth, 7″ x 10″.

I used old cotton sheets to test sew each bodice. I learned a little something from each pattern, but still even with extensive alterations all the sleeves fit too tightly.

The solution came when I looked to the purchased clothes in my closet that fit well. One shirt in particular, from the Sarah Jessica Parker clothing line Bitten – now sadly no more – had a bodice and sleeve that, once I copied it and compared it to the Butterick patterns, had the shape that fit me perfectly and worked in all the armholes of all the patterns without having to gather in ease.

The 3 changes I made to create the perfect universal armhole/sleeve pattern are:

1. On the bodice front and back pattern pieces: Shorten the shoulder seam 0.5″ at the shoulder edge, tapering out to the original sewing line before the underarm curve.

2. On the bodice back pattern piece only: Add 0.5″ to the back shoulder at the shoulder only, tapering to nothing at the neck.

3. On the sleeve pattern piece: Redesign the sleeve cap so that it has less height at the cap and adds a bit in the armhole curve before it dips into the underarm. My sleeve pattern is in yellow underneath the purchased pattern piece.

With these three changes I can now alter any pattern so that the bodice and sleeve fit properly.  Here are three shirts I made using Butterick 4985.

The first garment is a white cotton knit shirt with stains from coconut water on the front.

The shirt after over dyeing in tea with the coconut water stain almost matched exactly.

The second garment is an indigo cotton batik dress, before and after over dyeing in tea, a subtle change, but a better color for me.

I changed the first stitch on the odd rows of chart B to a knit stitch rather than a slip stitch. I added a knit stitch to the beginning of the even rows, (which also adds a stitch to the end of all the odd rows) because I didn’t like the loops of the yo as the first stitch. So CO 14 stitches instead of 13 and add one stitch to the stitch counts for all rows.

This pattern was intimidating until I knit 2 practice repeats of chart A – 24 rows, two separate times. I soon felt familiar with the stitch sequences, there are only three, and how the stitches should look on the needle from the previous row, to know that I hadn’t made a mistake. Still, this is a challenging knit, the edging felt epic, another once in a lifetime project – similar to the Lady’s Circular Shawl.

.

Here are my four versions, first in cotton craft yarn on linen cotton fabric, I drew this one free hand.

.

In cotton craft yarn on linen cotton fabric, from a photo copy, this version is the truest to the original motif.

.

In my hand dyed wool on linen cotton fabric, with my changes to the motif inspired by calligraphy scrolls and the motifs in the book Scandinavian Needlecraft by Clare Young, as seen in other posts here.

.

In vintage crewel embroidery wool on linen cotton fabric, with more changes to the motif.

.

My multicolor version of a motif from Scandinavian Needlecraft in cotton craft yarn on linen cotton fabric.

.

The original monochrome version from Scandanavian Needlecraft by Clare Young

Notes:

This was a lot of fun to knit, I think it would make a perfect first shawl pattern for a new knitter. Just when it feels like the ruffle rows will go on forever and no progress is being made, poof, and the stitches are decreased by half again. I highly recommend this one and will make another for sure, next time in a light color!

Began with provisional cast on, added a repeat.

.

.

Notes:
Please use the above link to download the free pattern.

.

From Scandinavian Needlecraft, 6 inches x 7 inches, on broad cloth

.

From Scandinavian Needlecraft, 6 inches square, on broad cloth, inspired by:

.

.

Calligraphy scrolls on broad cloth, 6 inches x 3 inches

.

7 inches x 2.5 inches