Anecdotal Knitting

I set myself the goal to find a pattern that fit well and looked flattering. I started with the bodice, taking on the problem of getting a sleeve pattern to fit so that I could move my arms comfortably in the garment. I recently purchased 6 Butterick patterns with different style elements in each, including the Butterick Fitting Pattern 5627.

I used old cotton sheets to test sew each bodice. I learned a little something from each pattern, but still even with extensive alterations all the sleeves fit too tightly.

The solution came when I looked to the purchased clothes in my closet that fit well. One shirt in particular, from the Sarah Jessica Parker clothing line Bitten – now sadly no more – had a bodice and sleeve that, once I copied it and compared it to the Butterick patterns, had the shape that fit me perfectly and worked in all the armholes of all the patterns without having to gather in ease.

The 3 changes I made to create the perfect universal armhole/sleeve pattern are:

1. On the bodice front and back pattern pieces: Shorten the shoulder seam 0.5″ at the shoulder edge, tapering out to the original sewing line before the underarm curve.

2. On the bodice back pattern piece only: Add 0.5″ to the back shoulder at the shoulder only, tapering to nothing at the neck.

3. On the sleeve pattern piece: Redesign the sleeve cap so that it has less height at the cap and adds a bit in the armhole curve before it dips into the underarm. My sleeve pattern is in yellow underneath the purchased pattern piece.

With these three changes I can now alter any pattern so that the bodice and sleeve fit properly.  Here are three shirts I made using Butterick 4985.

I simmered about 150 grams of loose tea from previously used tea bags in water for an hour to make the dye liquor. I then simmered each clean garment separately (previously soaked in water to thoroughly wet out) in the dye liquor for about an hour.

The first garment is a white cotton knit shirt with stains from coconut water on the front.

The shirt after over dyeing in tea with the coconut water stain almost matched exactly.

The second garment is an indigo cotton batik dress, before and after over dyeing in tea, a subtle change, but a better color for me.

Pattern: A Curved Shawl with Diamond Edging by Jane Sowerby from Victorian Lace Today
Started: June 6, 2010
Finished: April 7, 2011
Yarn: Misti Alpaca Lace Solids, 437 yards/50 grams, 100% alpaca, over-dyed
Needles: #3 KnitPicks Options
Notes:
Shawl center chart A – took 70 grams or 612 yards. Knit 49 repeats of chart B edging separately, which took 30 grams or 262 yards. I hand sewed the border to the shawl.

I changed the first stitch on the odd rows of chart B to a knit stitch rather than a slip stitch. I added a knit stitch to the beginning of the even rows, (which also adds a stitch to the end of all the odd rows) because I didn’t like the loops of the yo as the first stitch. So CO 14 stitches instead of 13 and add one stitch to the stitch counts for all rows.

This pattern was intimidating until I knit 2 practice repeats of chart A – 24 rows, two separate times. I soon felt familiar with the stitch sequences, there are only three, and how the stitches should look on the needle from the previous row, to know that I hadn’t made a mistake. Still, this is a challenging knit, the edging felt epic, another once in a lifetime project – similar to the Lady’s Circular Shawl.

This border motif is a 1950′s adaptation of a traditional Finnish woven tapestry from the Designer’s Guide to Scandinavian Patterns by Thomas Parsons, page 112 Plate 113.

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Here are my four versions, first in cotton craft yarn on linen cotton fabric, I drew this one free hand.

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In cotton craft yarn on linen cotton fabric, from a photo copy, this version is the truest to the original motif.

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In my hand dyed wool on linen cotton fabric, with my changes to the motif inspired by calligraphy scrolls and the motifs in the book Scandinavian Needlecraft by Clare Young, as seen in other posts here.

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In vintage crewel embroidery wool on linen cotton fabric, with more changes to the motif.

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My multicolor version of a motif from Scandinavian Needlecraft in cotton craft yarn on linen cotton fabric.

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The original monochrome version from Scandanavian Needlecraft by Clare Young

Pattern: Citron by Hilary Smith Callis in Knitty, Winter 2009
Started: August 29, 2010
Finished: September 10, 2010
Yarn: KnitPicks Shadow, 100% Merino, lace weight, 440 yards/50 grams, 660 yards, Redwood Forest
Needles: #6 circular

Notes:

This was a lot of fun to knit, I think it would make a perfect first shawl pattern for a new knitter. Just when it feels like the ruffle rows will go on forever and no progress is being made, poof, and the stitches are decreased by half again. I highly recommend this one and will make another for sure, next time in a light color!

Began with provisional cast on, added a repeat.

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This pattern is available as a free Ravelry download.
Pattern: I washed what I thought was a rag that a carpenter left at my house, and discovered a lovely little hat, this pattern is my version of that hat.
Started: 2.14.11
Finished: 2.19.11
Yarn: Cascade 220 and Plymouth Galway, 100% wool, worsted, 110 yards/50 grams, 90 yards total.
Needles: #6 circular and set of 5 double pointed
Gauge: 20 sts/4” & 25 rows/4” in stockinette

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Notes:
Please use the above link to download the free pattern.

From Scandinavian Needlecraft, 4 inches x 6 inches, on black linen/cotton

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From Scandinavian Needlecraft, 6 inches x 7 inches, on broad cloth

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From Scandinavian Needlecraft, 6 inches square, on broad cloth, inspired by:

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Calligraphy scrolls on broad cloth, 6 inches x 3 inches

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7 inches x 2.5 inches

House embroidery, craft yarn on black linen/cotton, 8 inches x 7 inches.

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Inspired by the book Scandinavian Needlecraft, (see below) craft yarn on muslin, 5 inches x 7 inches.

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Original motif from book.

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Craft yarn on muslin 5.5 inches round.

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Craft yarn on yellow linen/cotton, 6.5 inches round.

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Original motif.

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I haven’t posted since May 2010, here is what I’ve been working on, from most recent to oldest.

From Scandinavian Needlecraft by Clare Youngs

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My floral design, 6 inches x 7 inches on yellow linen cotton which was

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inspired by this Floral Cut Work Bag page 20

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My multi-colored 4″ square on broad cloth version of

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the Christmas stocking on the right page 34

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Other embroidery motifs include Calligraphy scrolls and flourishes

8 inches x 2 inches on broadcloth

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6 inches x 0.75 inches on broadcloth

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7 inches x 2.5 inches on broadcloth

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Multi-colored Torrefazione tile, 8 inches x 5 inches on broadcloth

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Flowers, 7 inches x 9 inches on white cotton

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Concentric squares, 6 inches square on white cotton

13″ x 13″ in craft thread on broad cloth.
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Using all the colors
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